Soft-Roading 3: Recovery Basics for Soft-Roaders
Recovering a stuck Cross-Over or "Sport" SUV is a bit different than with something like a Jeep. For starters the chances that you have a winch are virtually zero, so I'm not covering that at all. You probably also don't have true Recovery Points , so simply hooking up a recovery strap and yarding on it until it budges is likely to cause damage.
Step one is to STOP. As soon as you loose the ability to move you need to stop, get out, asses the situation, and make a plan.
Your first, best, option is to get out under your own power. A shovel is your friend! Maybe all you need to do is shift a bit of dirt or move a rock. If you just need a bit more traction then it time for a Recovery Board, or failing that whatever rocks, logs, floor mats, or whatever you can find to jam under your tires to gain some traction.
High centered too badly for a bit of traction to help or can't get the Recovery Boards under the tires far enough? You are still better getting unstuck under your own power, or failing that at least getting your vehicle lifted off whatever it is stuck on before getting a tug from a Recovery Rope so you don't damage something underneath. To do this you need to jack up your vehicle and then stack your recovery boards and/or whatever you can find under your tires. Most of the time your factory jack will do the job nicely if you have a chunk of 2x8 board or something similar to place under it for stability.
If, however, you can't get the factory jack under your vehicle then it's time for the good-old Highlift Jack. At this point 30% of you are saying "Highlifts are dangerous", 30% of you are going "What!!, I don't have a bumper or anything that I can put a jack on!", 30% have no idea what I'm about to tell you, and 10% are nodding and smiling.
To start with, yes, Highlifts can be dangerous and many people are injured or even killed every year because they use them wrong. Used correctly and controlled properly there is very little danger. Read the manual, watch the training videos, or take a course.
As for where on your vehicle to use the Highlift, I rarely jack up any vehicle from the bumpers or side bars. I lift from the tire. It's faster, safer, easier on the vehicle, and can be done with 90% of stock vehicles. The best way to do this for most Soft-Roaders is with a Lift Mate attachment for the Highlift, but in a pinch a long soft shackle (or two linked) can do the job. The trick is that you don't want the nose of the jack to either push the side of the tire off the bead or to hit the body of the vehicle. A future article will go into this in more detail.
Your final option is another vehicle and a Recovery Strap or Recovery Rope. Note the word RECOVERY. Tow straps are designed for pulling a rolling vehicle on a relatively smooth surface. Recovery straps are designed for stuck vehicles and have the special property of being elastic. The stretch and recoil of the recovery strap reduces "shock load" on your vehicle,and it helps to do the recovery at a lower and more controlled speed. You should never be going more than 10 kph when doing a recovery. There are Recovery Straps and "Kinetic" Recovery Ropes. For Soft-Roaders I recommend spending the extra money to get a good Recovery Rope as the extra elasticity will be easier on your vehicle. For more on Recovery straps vs tow straps go HERE. For more on where to hook a strap or rope to go back to Soft-Roading 2: Recovery Points
You also need to know when to give up and call a tow truck. A $800 tow bill is still cheaper than ripping the front end off your vehicle.